June is the season of yangmei —and also the season of plum rain in Jiangnan. In early summer, the drizzle carries a faint sweet-and-sour scent, as berries ripen under soft rain. When the fruit swells, pales, then blushes slowly with streaks of red, a subtle sense of longing begins to permeate the air—“On the hills, the yangmei bloom, fragrant as dusky orchids.”

Some can’t wait until the berries are fully ripe and sweet. They pick them early, knowing well such berries are fit mostly for wine. Yet the impatience itself is part of the ritual—a yearning that has waited a full year.

Having lived close to yangmei for thirty years, I still feel the warmth of village life in this season—the joy of visiting relatives and friends, all accompanied by the iconic sweet-sour taste of the fruit.

I once wrote: “As the old saying goes, yangmei can cure a hundred illnesses.” In my hometown, this belief is widely held. yangmei are gentle on the stomach, and bayberry wine is often used as a folk remedy for summer digestive ailments.

For generations, making bayberry wine has been a vital June tradition. Those who have bayberries naturally welcome friends and family from near and far, sharing the year’s harvest.

Buyers and sellers, hosts and guests—all take part in the vibrant social tapestry of June. Some become friends for life, invited year after year to the mountains in June. This annual exchange, built around the taste of yangmei, fosters lasting connections.

I recall someone saying that there are two world-class fruits: mangosteen and yangmei. What makes them exceptional is a perfect balance of sweetness and acidity, a refined fragrance, and a lingering aftertaste—one that reminds us of the marvels of nature.

Today, more and more people dream of the taste of Jiangnan’s June yangmei. And when it comes to the finest variety—the one that balances sweetness, acidity, aroma, and a soft, juicy texture—nothing surpasses the Wandao yangmei from Zhoushan.

Once tasted, never forgotten. As June approaches, the longing grows—softly, steadily, like the plum rain itself—until that dark, ripe berry finally lands on your tongue.

The largest consumers of bayberries in China are, in fact, here in Jiangnan—where millions of bayberries are grown. The longer people grow them, the more they understand them. They eat them, share them, and gift them—because within that sweet-sour taste lies the flavor of longing.

Come to Jiangnan in June. Taste the bayberries.

Author: Lisa Cheng